London Loop: Uxbridge - Purfleet (Part 2/2)
Infiltrating A Pub: Uxbridge - Purfleet
8 days into the London Loop, an orbital walking path around the outskirts of London, I'm now about halfway through and find myself back at Uxbridge to continue for the next section, which starts off back along the Grand Union Canal again, heading north. Almost immediately, you come across the first lock on this section, where you swap over on to the right side of the water. You stay on the right side as you pass underneath the A40, where you then switch back over to the left, as I take a small break from the Loop. That's because I noticed that the Colne Valley Regional Park is only a short walk away from the canal here, so I thought I'd give it a quick explore, walking up to see the visitor centre, and noticing how in this area, there seems to be a lot of smaller rivers like the Colne or the Misbourne, and larger lakes around. Back on the Loop, you cross back over the canal again, and strangely walk away from it on a path near to them lakes I've mentioned. This path goes under an amazing railway viaduct that carries the Chiltern Main Line above between West Ruislip and Denham, as well as also passing over the canal to my left. This path continues up to the road at South Harefield, before going back onto the Grand Union Canal, which is why I found it strange that we came away from it in the first place. Another long stretch of the canal now as it continues to be pleasant as I spot a few riverside pubs along the way. You finally come off of the canal at Harefield West, the very edge of London, where Route U9 runs up to on a loop, at the very end of this 4.5 mile section. This canalside walking was very pleasant, and it continued to be so as I carried on to the next. There was something further up the canal that I really wanted to go and see but it would have been to far to walk up and then return all the way back to Harefield, so I made sure to return there another time. This next section took me through probably some of the most beautiful countryside and woodland so far on the Loop through Old Park Wood and Batchworth Heath with some steep paths, loads of horses, and scenic meadows. It has been a while since I've done the London Loop now and I've found myself on sections of it since then, but not this one, and I genuinely would like to walk it to experience it all over again. Near to the end now where there's a glorious woodland section where electricity pylons power overheard, and then right up alongside the Metropolitan Line tracks during sunset to the end of this 9.5 mile section at Moor Park Station, which features a lot of fancy expensive mansions in the neighbouring estate. This was arguably my favourite section of the Loop so far, and with the addition of the Regional Park earlier on, this walk probably ended up being over 10 miles.
I was a little bit anxious to return to Moor Park for the next section of the Loop, as it was going to be the longest section and I was worried that I may have bitten off more than I can chew with this distance. It actually took me almost 2 months to return to the Loop as I didn't want to rush through all of it during the winter months, and wanted to do some in spring and summer, so in April, I started off back along the tube tracks to the golf course nearby. Usually, walking across a golf course is not a good idea but this one wasn't too bad as there was an actual proper footpath, with benches, across it. This section is also really pretty so this north western point of London Loop is definitely a part I'd recommend as you walk through the South Oxhey Playing Fields and goes into Oxhey Woods. You come across a farm next, and I couldn't tell if I was actually supposed to walk through the grounds of it, as I could see people working, so I thought it must be private, so I walked round the outskirts instead. You go right down the edge of a field now towards Hatch End, where this section of 3.8 miles ends, but doesn't really end anywhere near the station. The next section does go right up on the opposite side of the field though, so really you could have cut straight across when you first accessed the farm. Another path alongside the railway here on the West Coast Main Line between Hatch End and Carpenters Park, before you head over a bridge for a bit of road walking. Another golf course and woods after, and you get to a delightful spot I wasn't expecting, the Harrow View Point, a place which really does have a great view of West London and I definitely made sure to relax on one of the picnic benches there for a while to read my new book I started on the train to Moor Park. The Bentley Prior Open Space next, before I came across another unexpected view point of London, at the very top of Stanmore Country Park, which I came slightly away from the Loop to look at as it looked interesting and it became a surprise. I was actually intending to explore the country park a couple of years prior but it was during the winter and the entrance to it was so muddy that I called it off, and I'm glad because it was really fun to get to see for the first time. I got slightly lost trying to find my way near the grounds of the Royal National Orthopaedic Hospital, but I did see an abandoned building, probably part of the old grounds of the hospital. Across a field to a lengthy section of road walking under the M1, and underneath the Aldenham Country Park, which is slightly disappointing as it would have been good to explore there. I thought the road walking continued all the way up to Elstree & Borehamwood Station, but I was glad to find that I got one last field walk, before looping back round to the station, which of course the area is famous for film studios being nearby, and is actually a rather nice town. The longest section yet, consisting of 13.8 miles, with two unexpected viewpoints which were great, I was surprised I managed to be able to do the whole thing and that it didn't take as long as I was expecting.
I was both looking forward and not so looking forward to this next section of the London Loop, starting back at Elstree & Borehamwood Station. This walk starts off with an almost 1.5 mile length of road walking, which are never the most fun to do as I'd much rather walk in green spaces like the Scratchwood Open Space the roads finally reached to. But even this didn't last too long as the Open Space stretched out to reveal the Barnet Way, where the Loop continues almost directly on the other side. However, there isn't any subway or footbridge here over this main road, and it is too busy and dangerous to cross on foot, especially because of the fence that blocks the two directions of traffic, so you have to walk all the way down alongside it to reach a subway, to come all the way back, taking almost 20 minutes in total. The walk finally begins to get good though as you enter Moat Mount, and the start of what is another signposted walk, the Dollis Valley Greenwalk, of which the Dollis Brook, the river that the walk follows, has its source within these grounds. Another small road stretch, alongside some rather attractive housing, brings you into a delightful path through some fields and meadows, which are all sitting underneath the busy town of Barnet above us. It's kind of hard to imagine that this is all relatively close to the Northern line as it terminates at High Barnet, which the walk comes close to next. I've always been rather fond of Barnet, as it is a rather cute town with its church and attractive high street. Next up was a section I was quite looking forward to seeing again, yes, again, as I had previously taken a rather short walk from Barnet to Cockfosters through Hadley Wood, before I confirmed that I was going to do the London Loop and before I knew it followed that same walk. It was good to revisit it however, since Hadley Wood was a place I went to all the time when I was a kid, so it's a pretty special place in my heart. Getting to see the small church of Monkey Hadley, which the 399 bus passes, up close and personal and crossing over the East Coast Main Line as it's hidden away in the middle of the woods here was great to get to see again. The lake, which I always went to see when in Hadley Wood was near the end of this section, as you make your way down towards Cockfosters, at the end of this 10 mile section. Even though it didn't start off the best with all the road walking, it definitely improved on the approach to Barnet, and walking through Hadley Wood.
The next section of the London Loop definitely looked like it was going to be good one, so I was looking forward to it. It's also the section that is the most local to me, but I had never been on any of it before, except near to the very start. Leaving Cockfosters, you first enter Trent Park, somewhere I had been before, but the Loop enters a better way than I did, and this was the one I used when I came here in the early hours of the morning after Route N91. Trent Park is fun to explore and was definitely great to see more of it this time. Upon leaving Trent Park, I noticed that there was an obelisk in memorial of somebody, so I thought I'd quickly go to have a closer look at it. This next part I was very much looking forward to as you walk right beside some pretty countryside on the very northern edge of London, that stretches on for quite some time, and I think I even caught a glimpse of Alexandra Palace near to the end. Crossing over The Ridgway, the road that Route 313 uses which offers beautiful countryside views, so you know that where I just walked really was quite good, you walk up a country lane towards a shooting ground. I could actually hear gunshots which were very creepy as I was the only person around in the middle of nowhere, and reminded me of my Littlebrook walk in preparation of the Loop. Underneath the railway line between Gordon Hill and Crews Hill, the Loop turns right now, but I turned left as I thought I'd go and quickly see a foot crossing over the railway, seeing one of the very old trains with the paintwork peeling off that still ran on that line at the time. Back on the Loop and into Hilly Fields Park, featuring a bandstand, which just feel like lonely places nowadays, the remainder of the walk seemed to follow the Turkey Brook most of the way. Whitewebbs Park sits to the top of this site and features the brilliant Flash Lane Aqueduct over the Cuffley Brook, which I went to go see another time. There really does seem to be a lot of small brooks in this area of North London, and there's also Forty Hall which is nearby. I knew about this place for a long time so there was definitely no way I was going to pass up the opportunity to give it a quick explore as it's not exactly on the Loop path. It seemed there was some sort of cultural event happening, and I was happy that I got access to have a quick look inside of the hall and to look around the area, taking a nice break on a picnic bench nearby. A bridge over the Great Cambridge Road next, before continuing alongside the grounds of the Enfield Crematorium, passing near to Turkey Street Station, most likely named after the brook that I was following, before finishing up passing through Albany Park below Enfield Lock Station. The actual lock I'll get to see on the next section of the Loop, but I have to say that this 10 mile walk was definitely one of my favourite ones so far, taking in new sights in North London.
Starting back at Enfield Lock Station for the next section, you almost immediately see the actual lock on the River Lee Navigation as you pass over it. As this is still pretty close to me in North London, this is was another place I went to one time just to get out of the house for a little while and go on a short walk along the Lee between Enfield Lock and Waltham Cross. You actually walk along a small section of a river here that links the Lee Navigation with the actual River Lea, which is split away here. You can see the different name change here, which is always a common argument on what the true spelling is, but I believe when it's the navigation, it's L.E.E, but when the river splits, and it's not navigation, or nearer to the source, it's L.E.A. Lea Bridge has that spelling whilst the Lee Valley has the other spelling, and I believe that's how it's supposed to be. There's some nice bridges across the rivers here, which is a beautiful start to this section. You head into the marshland next towards Sewardstone, an interesting name, and then head up a hill after a field to get a great view over some reservoirs and the industry surrounding Brimsdown. After a small road walk, you head into the woods towards a scout centre, which again I felt I was walking towards private land, but it wasn't, so you continue through the western edges of the Epping Forest towards the end of this 4 mile section to Chingford Station. Opposite the station here, there's some brilliant open meadow land that leads into the large expanse of Epping Forest, which is always pretty good to walk across, at the start of the second section I wanted to tackle that day. Unfortunately, I didn't find this section as interesting as the one from Enfield Lock. It was still really good though walking through some more woodland up towards and over the Central Line tracks into Roding Valley Meadows. I had actually visited here before after a small walk from Epping to Theydon Bois through the forest, so it was great to see the large lake and chill by it again. That's pretty much it for this walk though as when you leave the meadows, the final mile is all the way beside the road to Chigwell Station. 8 miles from the start at Enfield Lock on a rather enjoyable section on the Loop, I got to use the second least used station on the London Underground to go home, getting excited that I was coming up near to the end of the Loop, now that I'm in the North East.
Even the very start of the next section at Chigwell begins along the road for almost the first mile, so if you were doing both of these sections at the same time, you'd have almost 2 miles of non stop roads. Afterwards though, it becomes much better as this is a very rural section of the Loop, and in these outskirts of London, into Essex at parts, there's a lot of countryside and fields, a lot of which I seemed to walk through. Chigwell Station actually is in Essex, so it's very strange that it falls into the Zone 4 fare boundary, although it used to be in Zone 5, as anything just outside the border of London tends to be Zone 6 or 7 usually. On the Loop, you cross some countryside over to a water works area beside Chigwell Row, the park there being a place I had explored before, so was great to see again. You enter Hainault Forest Country Park soon after, which I also had explored before, before heading up over to Loughton to walk through the Epping Forest to Chingford where I decided to do Route 444, back when I was doing the buses. Again, I wasn't complaining that I got another chance to explore here as it's a pleasant area to walk around, getting rope burn because I couldn't help myself when I saw a rope swing. The country park offers a path around a large lake and a nice view as it's also rather hilly, and as I left it behind me, something rather confusing occurred. The path seemed to go right across the top of a field out onto a country road, and even Google Maps, which has the pathway labelled as London Loop here, seemed to suggest that this was the case. However, there was no exit onto the road as there was bushes guarding the way, so I didn't really know how to get out, so I had to clamber through some barbed wire, making sure not to get caught. Going down the road, there was a Loop sign pointing into the field, so presumably I was supposed to cut down the field rather than stay on top, so it's strange that Google Maps has it labelled wrong. I also went a slightly different way in Havering Country Park next, which was all down to me just taking any path I wished to get through it, and once I did, I found myself in the rather cute village of Havering-Atte-Bower, the end of a 6 mile section. However, I didn't want to end here as the only public transport is Route 375, which doesn't run on Sundays and only runs about every hour and a half at all other times, so you're timing has to be impeccable if you're starting or ending here. I was slightly disappointed that the village didn't seem to have any local shop weirdly, as I ran out of water because it was quite a hot day, and the nearest shop was far from my walk on the Loop. The only thing I could do was to infiltrate a local pub, of which there was a few lying around, and hope that they'll be nice enough to refill my water bottle for free, which luckily and thankfully they did, as I would need it for the next 4 miles or so across more pretty countryside, with some horses grazing around. After some rather nice meadows and countryside, you pass through the area of Noak Hill and continue along some local parks behind the houses of the Harold Hill Estate alongside a small brook all the way to the end of the walk at Harold Wood. I couldn't believe that I'd made it that far, and it was strange to me that I only had 2 days left of walking on the Loop.
Back at Harold Wood Station for the penultimate walk on the London Loop, this section seemed to have less countryside as previous ones. You start off across some open heathland made up of a few parks, the first being Harold Wood Park, and then Pages Wood, which had some statues of animals like an otter. A rather lengthy road walk next as you pass over the busy Southend Arterial Road, until you go down what was a rather overgrown footpath into the only field on this walk. As I crossed over this field, and about to leave, I thought I saw some more statues of animals behind a fence, but then they moved their heads, and I was surprised to find a couple of goats just chilling on a podium. Upon leaving the field, another road section occurs as I passed over the single track railway line between Emerson Park and Upminster, and then down to Upminster Bridge Tube Station, where this 4 mile section ends. In the ticket hall of the tube station, there was a plaque of the next section of the Loop to Rainham, which I was going to walk next, and I've seen a few of these at the start of other sections like outside of Chigwell and Uxbridge Stations. There's also an empty classic telephone box in the ticket hall as well as weirdly, a reverse swaztika logo on the floor, which I'm surprised nobody has kicked off about yet to try and get removed. This next section passes immediately over the bridge the tube station is named after as it crosses the River Ingrebourne, something I had already seen a few times on my walk from Harold Wood that morning, and which I would be walking alongside more in this section. I do this for quite a while whilst in the Ingrebourne Valley, until you enter Hornchurch Country Park, somewhere I had also explored before, but is a really interesting place to go to, so I didn't mind at all. This whole site used to be an old RAF Base, and there was still remnants of it around with abandoned pillboxes, which are always a great thing to see. The country park leads all the way through to Rainham, as another 4 mile section ends, which is a pretty nice little town, and it was so strange to feel that there was only one section left of the London Loop. There wasn't any trains from Rainham Station when I was there though, so I had to catch a bus to Elm Park Station instead, but I would need the trains to be running on this line for the final day.
My previous walk on the London Loop was only 8 miles, and the final and 24th section is only 5 miles, which I was going to tackle that day. My longest section was 13.8 miles, so I could have done all 13 miles as my final day, but I really wanted to spend time taking in everything the final 5 had to offer. It was the 11th of July 2019 when I returned to Rainham Station, with the trains running this time, on my 16th day on the Loop, taking almost 10 months from my first walk starting at Erith on the 28th September 2018. Alongside the C2C platforms at Rainham Station lies the Eurostar tracks, and climbing a bridge over the railway here offers a great view of where I would be walking towards that day, Rainham Marshes. To get there though, I had to cross over two roundabouts on layby roads off the busy A13, and then another really overgrown pathway until you come across a stunning view beside the River Thames. It was great to finally see the Thames again, for the first time since Kingston, especially as I could see across to Crossness Pumping Station, where I passed on another brilliant Thames walk from Woolwich to Erith. Mentioning Erith, at points along this walk, which gladly follows the Thames the entire time, I could see across to the legendary Erith Pier, where the London Loop starts at, really hitting home just how I've just about walked all the way around the outskirts of London and that this really was the final day. Even though the Loop is described as an M25 for walkers, you don't actually end over at Erith where you started, as there's a lack of Thames crossings in East London, but essentially I had walked all the way around, which was difficult to fathom when I think of places I had passed through that seem a million miles away like Uxbridge or Cockfosters. As I'm down in the Thames Estuary here, of which the marshes are the largest area of wetlands along the Esturary, it is rather industrial, which I love to walk through if I get to walk beside the river too. Examples of this include what looks to be storage facilities and really old piers or jettys from when freight by ships were more popular, which are always cool to see still existing. Other points of interest on this walk were old WW2 concrete barges which were apparently used to accompany D-Day landings, and with the old RAF base at Hornchurch, which we saw last time, being nearby, it felt fitting that these were where they were left abandoned, even though it's strange that they are still here on the shoreline to this day. There also seemed to be some wooden posts around in the shapes of pirates, and even some crosses in the same style clipped to fences alongside the path with random quotes added to it, and I'm not too sure why they were there. Another part of the path as it goes along some industry buildings, you spot a couple of really old routemaster buses, which I remember seeing driving up towards this spot, whilst on the other side of the Thames on Erith Pier, so it was great to actually see these up close as they were parked up. Another thing I was always intrigued by when looking across the Thames from Erith was the Rainham Landfill Site on the marshland here, which just looks like a massive hole in the hillside here. I've heard that there was a plan to turn this entire marshland and landfill site here into a country park, so you're not just stuck on the path beside the Thames to walk along, but I haven't really seen anything come to fruition of this, and have no idea if there is a due date for this to open. Nearing the end of this beautiful marshland, I came across a visitor centre, which I always like to go in and have a look around as these places usually have some rather unique gifts that you can buy with a cafe attached, and it's always worth to go in and see. I was a little disappointed as I approached the end at Purfleet, as I didn't want it to end as I was enjoying it so much, but looking across the Thames here, I could see the Dartford Creek Barrier, the infamous M25 Crossing and the dominating Littlebrook Power Station chimney, reminding me of the previous amazing walk I did on that side of the river in preparation for the Loop, as well as all the sections of the 150 miles I had walked, remembering all the best and worst moments, and I genuinely couldn't believe that it was over. This was my first time using Purfleet Station, and noticing how there was a really old sign outside that had still the Network South East logo, a train company which owned this railway line until it's demise in 1994, and I made sure that the trains was running today, as there was no London buses which served here, and is even outside of the normal fare zones for oyster, as I was out into Essex now. I really enjoyed my experience of the London Loop, and I definitely think that this final section was a brilliant one to end on, being one of my all time favourites along with the first section from Erith - Bexley, Hamsey Green - Banstead, Uxbridge - Moor Park and Cockfosters - Enfield Lock. It may not be exactly 150 miles, as I'm sure if you added up all the miles each PDF of the sections suggest, it's not exactly 150, and if you print out an accomplishment certificate which you can do from the TFL website, it suggests it's 152. I would recommend anybody who hasn't been out on the Loop before to give it a shot if you like to walk, or even pick a spot along the route to visit for the day, as it provides a great experience to see new areas of London that I would have never seen otherwise.
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